How to Get to Cerro Prieto: A Traveler’s Guide to the Terror Bird Volcano

Music can shape and define aspects of people’s lives. Myself and many others have been influenced, maybe subliminally by the willowing sound effects of songs. Words that become bridled to the subconscious thoughts. These then form and create human beings that decide their wants through life. The fun vocals of The Coaster’s - Down in Mexico, was just enough to plant the seed that at some point in my life for no real reason, I had to go specifically to Mexicali. 

I first heard the song in 2007, at the impressionable age of 16. It was used in the dance scene of the movie Deathproof by Quentin Tarantino. At the time it was one of my favorite movies, maybe due to the muscle cars or perhaps the absurd depths of individual depravity and thrill seeking.

14 years later the idea for a round trip came to go from Rosarito to San Felipe to Cerro Prieto to Mexicali to Tijuana to Rosarito. A trip to a volcano led to the drive that would take me through a city that has been sung about for over 60 years. What I didn’t expect was how insanely busy this place is and overwhelming for someone who is only a passenger on intense roads and packed cities. As always in Mexico, look everywhere and watch out for potholes. 

The Jurassic Terror Bird Vulkan

Tucked away in the vast desert lands below the bustling urban sprawl of Mexicali stands Cerro Prieto. This is a geothermal field with a single surficial volcanic feature. Close to sea level, this dacitic lava dome stands at 223 meters tall. The crater is about 200 meters wide. 

Inside of this lava dome is a giant buzzard made from volcanic rocks. This has been placed by many peoples and are the remnants of the erupted cone mounds. In fact, many names, words, and initials have been placed by countless visitors over the years. It's a bit of an oddity turned art project. It hasn't always been there and only appeared in the past 7 years. The volcano itself is believed to have formed anywhere from 10,000 to 100,000 years ago. 

There are a couple of various entrances towards the base of the living volcano. A long dirt road from either Federal Highway 5 or Route 2. However, the entrance from Highway 2, traveling along the Canal Alimentador Central, will be quicker. Both require an adventure vehicle or a beater type car. We have an amazing blessing known as the 2011 Touareg TDI which traversed this steep incline and then steep decline with ease. However, I cried because nothing makes you feel closer to death than being inside of 2 tons of metal pointed up or down instead of being horizontal. But the adventure, they say. 

From the overview on Google Maps, Cerro Prieto might not look like much but it is certainly a fun journey. A long border made of stone lines the road at the base of the volcano. The pavement is initially nice at the bottom, laid in the early 1980’s. There is an option to stay and camp at the base of the volcano but there are no amenities, stores, or bathrooms. When we went there was no entry fee but we did go in December. More recent reports during the spring and summer state that there was a 20 Pesos entry fee. 

The Stories of Cerro Prieto

The Cucapá or Xawiƚƚ Kwñchawaay peoples hail from Northern Mexico and Arizona. They have stories about this spot known as Wee Ñaay which translates to “Black Hill”. One story that details a monster covering the land with hot rocks. These grew through the soil and emitted fire tongues. 

Another story tells the tale of “The Origin of Cerro Prieto”. In this version a sorceress inhabited a cave here and killed the Cucapa Indians one by one inside her cave for magical rituals until only one family remained. Once the daughter of the family was killed the son of the family came and killed the sorceress. Then the family set fire to the body of the sorceress, causing the ashes and smoke to become the volcanic structure of Cerro Prieto today. 

A third tale is told from the late 1800’s that involves hidden treasure. This tale is of 3 brothers who found gold near the Colorado River Delta and smelted it into bars over the course of years. Legend tells of them hiding the gold in a volcanic tube or cave in the Cerro Prieto Geothermal Field. Like with all tales involving gold, the three brothers died tragically and left no map. 

Down in MEXICALI

Getting gas was its own adventure. Mexico can be a bit desolate at times and getting diesel can be a bit of hassle depending on where you are. Maybe when you find that diesel gas station, it's at the end of the world's seemingly busiest road but you are happy nonetheless because you let your gauge get uncomfortably low. It was probably just the time of day but it seemed even more urgent as we sat in endless traffic during the rush hour that apparently never ceases to exist everywhere that humans do. 

I was really hyped just to go here as part of the drive through route to hit Federal Highway 2 and take in those literal rocky mountain scenes at sunset. Stopping off for gas and of course food. We stopped to get a signature coffee and something good for dinner. Since this was in December of 2021, I cannot remember the place we ate at! It was really good dumplings though. 

The Beautiful Mountain Drive 

Leaving Mexicali, you want to head west and start heading towards Tijuana. Here you will find long winding mountain roads. Heading through beautifully tall and endlessly vast stony mountains and outcrops. The most perfect place to be a desert goat if there were enough things to eat. 

Be ready to stop and enjoy the views often. If you motorbike, this is a very well-known and ridden road for its adventurous turns and views (looking at you father-in-law). Nothing beats these sunset views, be sure to get snacks, drinks, and to fuel up before you start driving out.

If your vehicle is prone to overheating, be prepared to stop and have extra water. We saw more than one vehicle in need of assistance on this long stretch of road. It is a busy and well used road as well.

A special note here, I adore the movie and book The Count of Monte Cristo. Therefore, I longed for a perfect string ring to be betrothed with. However, this means that it is delicate and my former one was broken (at this point we had been married for 3 years). We did this journey in celebration of our 3 year anniversary. My husband got me a new one, and gave it to me in sight of one of my favorite things on Earth, rocks. 

Don’t be a Toll TROLL 

Don’t be a toll troll like us and be sure to have the correct change. We were so busy and did not realize that there was going to be a toll as we entered back into Tijuana. We were so lucky that they did allow us to pay in both Pesos and US dollars. There are literally signs that state they will not do this, that it needs to be one or the other. 

Maybe it was by circumstance but it was so insanely busy and packed that we were blessed by the toll operator to pay with both. We should not have had that little cash on us to begin with. 

Where to Stay

We spent the night, per the usual, in San Felipe. We love the low key vibes, which you can learn more about by checking out our other article on; Five Things to Do in San Felipe. There, on a foggy night, when the tide is low and you go and walk along the strip, it's almost spooky watching all the little trucks driving in what appears to be the ocean. Also, a personal note to myself to never forget, I swear the meat on that quesadilla was street dog. As there are so many free dogs and I have never had something taste the way a wet dog smells. 

You can also camp in many places along the way including at the volcano as previously mentioned. Just know some Spanish, be polite, and as always keep your wits about you no matter where you are or what country you are in. 

How to Get to Cerro Prieto: The Complete Route Loop

1. Start in Tijuana

2. Head South Down Federal Highway 1D (I suggest 1D and not the old route that takes you through centro to central Rosarito due to the potholes. Trust me on this. 

3. Continue all the way down to Ensenada and take a left onto Mexico 3

4. At the end of this you will have the option to take Mexico 5 either North or South. South will take you to San Felipe and North will head you towards Mexicali. 

5. Now there are a ton of different turns you can make to navigate to Cerro Prieto. On our way in we took the turn depicted in blue. However, I suggest you take the route in red, that connects to the blue for an easier time on your vehicle. Plus you won’t be driving through various owned properties. Sometimes, people will charge a few Pesos for you driving through their land, which is understandable when there are public routes that you can take instead. The red route has you staying on Highway 5 and turning onto the Camino Pacifico which runs along the Canal Alimentador Central. This is the route we took when we left as the way in was a little rough and dusty on our car. 

6. From Cerro Prieto, leave the same way you came in and get back on Mexico Highway 5.

7. Proceed to Mexicali

8. From Here take Federal Highway 2 and enjoy the mountain drive back to Tijuana! 

Tips for the Traveler:

• Bring extra pocket money for tolls.

• Be sure to have a hat, some sunnies, and water because there is no hiding from the sun even in December. In the summer temperatures can reach as high as 120 degrees Fahrenheit, so keep that in mind.

• Have the time to play around here as it is very fun and with enough time you can even leave your mark no matter how big or small!

• Don’t be scared to travel and enjoy life, I’ve known people too scared to come to Mexico but there are places everywhere that are dangerous and everywhere that are safe.

  
  

Home is Where the Heart Is

Enjoyment can be found anywhere and you don't have to travel to find that. Going places isn't for everyone, in fact maybe staying inside and seeing the world through someone else's lens is best for a variety of reasons. Peace can be found sipping tea and looking at the same scene just outside your window. Our job as humans is to experience and experience happens no matter where we are. Good times and bad times allow us to grow and change, for the better or worse. We have 80 years if we are lucky and with that in mind just always remember the...

Most important rule: Enjoy every moment!